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Sapa (Sa Pa) lies in the very north west of Vietnam near the Chinese border. Along with Halong Bay it is the "other" major excursion from Hanoi. Sapa is such a colorful town thanks to the H'mong and Dzao people from the local hill tribes who head into the town's market every day to trade their produce. There's a main market every Saturday when the place is packed but there's a lower key one every other day during the week. These people will have undergone no formal education but the arrival of foreigners has made them well aware of the value of money and many of the youngsters have picked up a basic level of English. They sell clothing and handicrafts which are popular with tourists.

Meaning “Bay of the Descending Dragon,” Halong Bay’s water is calm and undisturbed despite the jutting limestone mountains that soar out of the water and toward the sky. As if a tail of a Dragon plunged into the earth, the mountains are craggy, sharp, and barren, and are dotted with thousands of small caves of various depths and heights. At dusk, they all take on mysterious shades of gray, mauve and olive, lending credence to the local legends.

Excursions

The provincial capital of Ninh Binh, 62 mi/100 km south of Hanoi, is worth a two- or three-day visit on its own, rather than the usual day trip from Hanoi. It is a bit off the trodden tourist trail, and there the life of contemporary Vietnam is visible without the prepackaged spin that most resorts put on the traveler's experience.

The haunting landscapes of Tam Coc are 6 mi/9 km from Ninh Binh. In scenery reminiscent of classic Chinese scroll painting, tiny wooden rowboats will take you on a river journey through brilliant green rice fields farmed by men and women wearing the traditional Vietnamese conical straw hats and country dress. Rising from the fields are sheer-sided limestone karsts very similar to those found in Halong Bay, but hung with tropical vegetation and home to darting cliff swallows. Three of the karsts are so large that naturally occurring caverns pass through them, and the effect of the vibrant landscape framed by the arched openings of the tunnels is breathtaking.

This is no commercial conceptualization—it is the real, rural life of Vietnam happening alongside the narrow river. At the end of the journey, your oarsman will most probably offer you examples of the high-quality local embroidery on tablecloths, napkins or T-shirts—at amazingly low prices, though as always, a certain amount of bargaining is expected.

Cuc Phuong National Park is 28 mi/45 km from central Ninh Binh, measures 106 sq mi/275 sq km, spans three provinces and protects some of the oldest forests in Vietnam. An hour's trek takes you to the Big Tree, an ancient forest giant with roots so widespread, 16 people must join hands in order to circle it.

Up several steep flights of stairs is the vast Cave of Prehistoric Man, where an estimated group of 25 protohumans lived together at the edge of the sea. Dinh May Bach (Silver Cloud Peak) has rugged hiking trails up its 2,125 ft/648 m height.

The Endangered Primate Resource Center near the entrance is a kind of mental and physical rehabilitation center for gibbons, several kinds of languars and lorises, all of which have been rescued from cages or illegal traders. The center's breeding program has been a great success, and infant monkeys are a common site as they cling to their mother's fur. The park has basic cabins for rent within the grounds, where visitors can experience the vibrant, complex life of the jungle at length.

Hanoi is a city with a history that dates back to the 7th century. In 1954 Hanoi was declared the capital of the Democratic Republic of North Vietnam, and in 1976, following the Vietnam War, it became the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. This political history has made Hanoi one of the country's most fascinating cities to explore. The most renowned of all the monuments is the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It is dedicated to Vietnam's most well-respected President, who in 1945, led his country to independence. Other highlights include the Museum of History, containing ancient artifacts from Cambodia, Thailand, Japan and China, the 11th century One Pillar Pagoda and legendary Sword Lake.

Excursions