VACATION DETAILS

The Shiite holy city of Karbala has several religious shrines, the most famous of which is the burial place of Hussein, the Muslim martyr and grandson of Muhammad. The tomb, which has minarets and a gilded dome, is surrounded by a large courtyard. There is also the tomb of Abbas, Hussein's half brother.

The shrines were heavily damaged after the Gulf War, but have since been repaired. Do not take a camera anywhere near the sacred precincts. Non-Muslims are not allowed inside the shrines and mosques but may visit the surrounding courtyards. About 31 mi/50 km southwest is the Ukhaidir Castle. Karbala is located 65 mi/105 km southwest of Baghdad.

In ancient times, Basra was the port from which Sinbad the Sailor departed on his voyages. Located in the marsh area of southern Iraq (on the Arabian Gulf), this city of date palms, distinctive architecture and canals has a lovely Corniche promenade along the Shatt Al-Arab River. An excursion boat ride on the river is usually the highlight of a visit to Basra.

The town was extensively damaged in the Shia rebellions following the first Gulf War in 1991, and the city center remains dilapidated. Nearby is Querna. Basra is located 275 mi/440 km southeast of Baghdad.

Founded in AD 762 on the west bank of the Tigris River, Baghdad was built as a city surrounded by a circular wall, with five gates. Only one of them, the restored Wastani Gate, is still in good condition. Almost nothing—except the gate and a carved marble prayer niche in the Khasaki Mosque—remains of the original "Round City." Baghdad rapidly grew to cover both sides of the river. Now Iraq's capital, it has a population of more than 7 million.

The west bank of the Tigris is called Karkh; the east side is Rusafa, where most of the ancient sites are located. On the west bank are the tombs of Sheikh Ma'ruf and Zobeidah, the Martyrs and Unknown Soldier Monument, the Royal Tulip Al Rasheed Hotel across the street (famous as the center of CNN's Gulf War coverage in 1991) and the Iraqi Museum.

Sights on the east bank include Sheikh Omar al Sahrawardi's Shrines (distinctive cone-shaped dome); the 13th-century College of Al Mustansiria and its fascinating architecture; the 14th-century Murjan Mosque; the Kadhimain Mosque (golden domes); and the Khan Murjan, now a museum and restaurant with beautiful arched ceilings. Also in Rusafa are the 13th-century Abbasid Palace and the various souks selling goods made from copper, silver, fabric, leather and gold.

The International Zone (formerly called the Green Zone) in Karkh, with the U.S. and British embassies, Parliament, several of Saddam Hussein's former palaces and various Saddam-era monuments, is not accessible to tourists.

Two nearby sites are the Kadhimain Mosque (5 mi/8 km from town), with its golden domes and minarets, and Tell Harmal (6 mi/10 km southeast), where clay tablets show that geometry was taught in this region several thousand years ago. Farther out of Baghdad are Baquba (about 40 mi/65 km northeast), which has many ruins, some dating back to 6000 BC; Agargour (20 mi/30 km northwest), which has 15th-century-BC ruins and a 170-ft-/50-m-high ziggurat); and the Arch of Ctesiphon (one of the wonders of the Ancient World, the world's largest brick arch was built in the third century BC).