VACATION DETAILS

About 25 mi/40 km northwest of Chetumal is the town of Bacalar, home to Bacalar Lagoon (the second-largest lagoon in Mexico) and the Spanish-built Fort San Felipe (noted for its museum of weapons and military uniforms but not always open).

Bacalar is in the southeastern part of the Yucatan peninsula, a four-hour drive from the Cancun airport and a half-hour drive from the Chetumal airport.

Bacalar was named one of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos (magical towns) by the Secretary of Tourism. It is famed for its spectacular Laguna de Siete Colores (Lagoon of Seven Colors) and the historic Fort of San Felipe, dating from 1733, along with its Museum of Piracy. The lagoon, which is named for the many shades of blue in its crystalline waters, offers an array of watersports, including swimming, kayaking, waterskiing and pontoon boating.

Take time to visit the archaeological site of Dzibanche. During the classical Maya period, from AD 200 to 800, Dzibanche was a regional center so vast that it had 22 separate plazas; so far, only three have been excavated. Archaeologists postulate that priests walked some 1,800 mi/2,900 km from Teotihuacan, near Mexico City, to perform ceremonies at Building Six, a Teotihuacan-style stone base topped by a pyramid.

Dzibanche's Temple of the Cormorants has hollowed-out burial caves where lower-ranking nobles were interred. And inside the Temple of the Owl, archaeologists found a royal palace with gold from Oaxaca. Trading throughout the Maya area was extensive, and the temple itself is in the Peten architectural style, which is found as far away as Tikal in Guatemala.

About 40 mi/65 km west of Bacalar are the Maya ruins of Kohunlich, which include a temple with giant stucco masks. This city was occupied from the sixth to the 12th or 13th century and was subsequently abandoned. The Temple of the Masks was built about 1,500 years ago.

Also nearby are two other impressive Maya ruins, Becan and Chicanna. Becan flourished from AD 600 to 900, and about 50,000-60,000 people lived there. The site is famous for a unique moat that surrounds it and a covered stone passageway with false arches.

Located on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula in the fascinating Mundo Maya Region, Merida provides a looking glass that reveals both colonial influence and the mystique of an ancient civilization. In fact, the city is built on the exact site of an indigenous ceremonial center.

Easily one of the best way to see Merida is by climbing into a calesa - a high-wheeled, horse-drawn carriage. The city is also easily explored by foot. As you amble past whitewashed houses, through lively marketplaces and around the flower-filled Plaza Mayor, you'll begin to feel as if you've stepped back in time. You can also visit one of Mexico's oldest cathedrals, built from the stones of a Mayan temple, explore Paseo Montejo, a Parisian-style boulevard lined with Victorian mansions, and visit the treasure-filled museums.

Wind down with the friendly locals in the welcoming bars and restaurants of the old colonial district. If you want to travel even further back in time, you'll find Merida is surrounded by one of the richest collections of Mayan ruins in Mexico. Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Dzibilchaltun, and more are just a short trip away.

Playa del Carmen is a thriving little beach town on Yucatán Peninsula. It is the dropping-off point for excursions to the temples and tombs of Tulúm, the only Mayan city overlooking the ocean, and to the exquisite coral lagoon of Xel-ha.

The only major Mayan city built next to the sea, Tulum, Mexico, enjoys a spectacular setting, perched on a bluff above the Caribbean.

The city was still inhabited when the first Spaniards arrived, and it was said to be larger than Seville at that time. What remains today, however, is a rather small collection of buildings, at least when compared with such Mayan sites as Chichen Itza.

Unfortunately, Tulum has become a victim of its own success, and most of its buildings have been roped off to protect them from being damaged by large numbers of visitors. The best time to visit is early in the morning before the cruise-ship and tour-bus groups arrive—this way, you'll also avoid the hottest part of the day. Or take a snorkeling trip from a local tour company and see the ruins from the water instead.

In addition to the beach and ruins, downtown Tulum is a pleasant spot for a stroll. It has a little plaza with a church and a street full of restaurants, bars and shops. At night, some of the bars offer live music and a local ambience.