VACATION DETAILS

One of the oldest towns in Central Asia, Khujand (pop. 160,000) was a major stop on the Silk Road. Until the security in Dushanbe improved, it was the site of much of the Western business focus in Tajikistan, at least in part because the northern regions of the country, including Khujand, were spared the fighting in the recent civil war because of the high mountains separating it from the south of the country. Many local travel agencies and business centers offer tours to the Pamirs, accommodations and other services. Located on the Syr Darya River, the main attractions include the Panjshanbe Bazaar, a typical Central Asian market, and the mosque, madressa and mausoleum of Sheikh Massal ad-Din. Although Khujand is more than 2,500 years old, almost no architecture from earlier eras is preserved. (Mongols destroyed most of the city in the 1400s.) However, it is possible to visit the ancient oasis town of Isfar-Tam, located northeast of Khujand on an old Silk Road route. It has beautiful gardens and a resort area on the riverbank. 125 mi/200 km north of Dushanbe.

The bridge between Asia and Europe is Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan with a growing population of 1.5 million. Also known as the "city of apples," Almaty grows a variety of apples used both as consumption and scientific research. At night, travelers navigate their way to its bright city lights and on a clear day, the snow-capped mountains are kissed by the sun in the background. While visiting Almaty, take advantage of the aerial tramway zipping you to the top of Kok Tobe. Practice your ice skating in Medeu, the highest Olympic sized ice stadium. Stroll through Arbat, a tree-line pedestrian street or gaze in awe at the grandeur of the Presidential Palace. 

This quiet, picturesque town near the eastern end of Lake Issyk-Kul is a good base for exploring the lake and the central part of the Tien Shan range, or just for relaxing at one of the many nearby hot springs. Among the historical oddities in town are a Tungan (Chinese Muslim) mosque and several 19th-century wooden colonnades on some of the older buildings near the central bazaar. There are also a couple of good markets in and around Karakol, particularly on Sunday. About 40 mi/65 km west of Karakol is a range of odd red-rock formations called Dzhety-Oguz, or Seven Bulls. Local legend says the bulls were turned to stone by the gods to keep them from terrorizing nomads. Karakol is 300 mi/480 east of Bishkek.

The capital of Uzbekistan, Tashkent has a growing population of 3 million people. Tashkent preserves its European architecture from old Turkestan and because of its multi-ethnic population Oriental and Arabic touches makes this city a modern and medieval wanderlust. 

Tajikistan's capital, nestled south of the Ferbana valley and west of towering Pamir Mountains, has a population of about 700,000. It wasn't always the premier city in the country: Until 1926, Dushanbe was a tiny village whose main importance was a market held every Monday (the city's name means Monday in Tajik). Then the railroad came to town and transformed the sleepy hamlet into a major transportation hub. That led to a lot of Soviet-style architecture, which gives the city a modern, uninspired look. Nonetheless, tree-lined streets and avenues, four big squares, numerous parks and impressive government buildings lend the city a certain charm. The prominent showpiece in Dusti Square is a new, multimillion-dollar monument to Ismail Somoni, who founded the Central Asian Somonid Dynasty in AD 895.

The biggest attractions are the markets. The covered market behind the Hotel Tajikistan sells Iranian and Chinese clothes, foodstuffs and electronics. Very few crafts are displayed because there have previously not been many visitors there to buy the goods. The bozori abz (green market) east of Aini Square sells fruits, vegetables and flowers. Other attractions include the motley Tajikistan Unified Museum (stuffed animals and ex-Soviet memorabilia), the Ethnographic Museum (traditional handicrafts), the Museum of National Antiquity (religious artifacts including an awesome reclining stone Buddha), the Rokhat teahouse, the Aini Square and Memorial Complex and the Aini Opera and Ballet House (both named after Sadriddin Aini, the father of Tajik literature). Note that many streets have recently changed (and may change again in the future) from their Soviet-inspired names to more Tajik-centric versions; finding your way around town can often be a frustrating endeavor, as even many locals won't know the current name of the street they are walking on.

After you've exhausted the possibilities in town, take a day trip to Hissor Fortress, 18 mi/30 km away. The stronghold, built in the 18th century and abandoned after 1920, was once the residence of the Turko-Mongric rulers. If time allows, other excursions can be made to Adzhina-Tepe (an ancient Buddhist monastery) and to the Varzob Gorge, the site of a health resort and thermal springs. Though a major hike from the gorge, the springs and resort will appeal to those who feel that hot radon steam is therapeutic. The Ramit Nature Reserve is not far away.

Bishkek lies in the Tien Shan mountain range in the Chui Valley in the Kyrgyz Republic. It is the largest city and capital of Kyrgyzstan. Bishkek often serves as a base for trips to the Tien Shans mountains, and makes a great start to tour the silk road. It is a hospitable town with cafes and clubs, and streets flanked with irrigation channels and large trees.